Frequently Asked
Questions

Golf Selector is a free digital golf fitting companion. You answer 7 questions about your age, skill level, carry distance, conditions and priorities — and the tool recommends iron heads, shafts and grip types matched to your profile. There is no charge, no account required and no catch.

No — and we're very clear about this. Golf Selector is a guide, not a fitting. A proper custom fitting with a PGA qualified professional using a launch monitor, real golf balls and multiple shaft options is always the gold standard.

What Golf Selector does is prepare you for that fitting. You'll walk in knowing what shaft flex you should be testing, which iron category suits your game, and which grip type matches your conditions — rather than starting from scratch. Think of it as your pre-fitting homework.

The recommendations are based on widely accepted fitting principles used by PGA professionals — carry distance to flex mapping, hand size to grip diameter, skill level to iron category. They are a strong starting point for the vast majority of golfers.

However, factors like swing tempo, attack angle, release pattern and personal feel preference can only be assessed on a launch monitor with a trained fitter present. Our results should be treated as a shortlist to test, not a definitive answer.

The 7-question quiz takes approximately 3 minutes. Browsing the results, selecting your iron head, shaft and grip, and reviewing the full spec overview takes another 5–10 minutes if you read everything. Total: under 15 minutes for a thorough session.

Shaft flex refers to how much the shaft bends during the swing. The ratings go from Ladies (most flexible) through Senior, Regular, Stiff and Extra Stiff (least flexible). The correct flex for you depends primarily on your swing speed.

Too stiff: The shaft doesn't load properly, leading to lower ball flight, loss of distance and a tendency to miss right (for right-handed players). Too flexible: The shaft over-bends, causing higher spin, higher ball flight and a tendency to hook or over-draw.

Steel shafts are heavier (typically 100–135g), more consistent, and provide better feedback and feel at impact. They are the preferred choice for most serious golfers and are almost universal in irons on the PGA Tour.

Graphite shafts are lighter (40–80g), generate more clubhead speed for the same effort, and absorb more vibration. They are the standard for drivers and fairway woods, and increasingly used in irons for senior and slower-swinging players who benefit from the extra distance.

Kick point is the area of the shaft that bends the most during the downswing. It directly affects launch angle and trajectory. A low kick point (bends lower down, near the clubhead) promotes higher launch — ideal for players who struggle to get the ball airborne. A high kick point (bends higher up, near the grip) produces a lower, more penetrating trajectory — preferred by faster swingers and links golfers in windy conditions.

Torque measures how much the shaft twists during the swing, measured in degrees. Lower torque (1–3°) means less twisting — more control, less error. Higher torque (4–6°) means more twisting — can add draw bias and help players who struggle to square the face. Most iron shafts have lower torque than wood shafts, which is one reason they produce more accurate, controlled shots.

Shaft weight is primarily determined by swing speed and strength. Faster, stronger swingers (170+ yards with a 7 iron) benefit from heavier shafts (120–135g) which resist twisting and keep the clubface more stable at high speed. Slower or senior swingers (under 140 yards with a 7 iron) benefit from lighter shafts (85–110g) which allow more clubhead speed to be generated with less effort. The Golf Selector tool recommends appropriate weight ranges based on your carry distance.

True Temper Dynamic Gold (typically S300 or X100 flex) is the most played iron shaft on the PGA Tour by a considerable margin. Project X 6.0 and KBS Tour are the other most common choices. All are heavy steel shafts (125–130g) in Stiff or X-Stiff flex — reflecting the very high swing speeds generated at tour level. The Golf Selector tool includes tour usage data on every shaft recommendation.

Grip diameter directly influences how much your wrists and hands rotate through impact. A larger grip slows wrist rotation — this reduces the chance of the face closing too quickly (helpful for players who hook or over-draw), but also reduces feel and the ability to sense the clubface. A standard or smaller grip allows free wrist action, maximising feel and feedback — but can promote over-rotation for some players.

The correct grip size is primarily determined by hand size (measured from wrist crease to the tip of the middle finger) and matched to your glove size. The Golf Selector grip page explains all size options in detail.

Rubber grips are soft, tacky and comfortable. They work well in dry to moderate conditions and suit the majority of recreational golfers.

Cord grips have cotton or nylon woven into the rubber, creating an aggressive texture that never slips regardless of moisture. They are the choice for wet climates, sweaty hands or humid conditions. The trade-off is a firmer feel.

Wrap grips simulate the feel of traditional leather — very soft, cushioned, and with a subtle texture that naturally positions the hands consistently at address. Preferred by feel-focused players and those with joint sensitivity.

Tape wraps are layers of double-sided grip tape applied to the shaft before the grip is installed. Each wrap adds approximately 1/64” to the grip diameter. This allows a fitter to precisely customise the final grip size without ordering different grip models. 2 wraps under a standard grip approaches midsize diameter. 4–5 wraps approaches jumbo/oversize. The Golf Selector tool explains the effect of each wrap count on the grip selection page.

The general recommendation is every 40 rounds or once a year, whichever comes first. Rubber grips lose their tackiness gradually — you may not notice it happening, but worn grips cause you to subconsciously grip tighter, which tightens the forearms and restricts your swing. Cord grips last significantly longer due to their more durable construction. A set of 13 grips typically costs £50–£150 depending on brand and model — one of the most cost-effective equipment upgrades available.

Blades (muscle-backs) have a thin topline, zero offset and no perimeter weighting. Every gram of mass sits directly behind the hitting area. Maximum feel and workability, minimum forgiveness. For scratch to +2 handicap players only.

Players cavity backs have a small cavity behind the face that redistributes some weight to the perimeter, adding a measure of forgiveness while retaining a compact look and good feel. For low to mid handicappers (scratch to 12 HC).

Game improvement irons have a wide sole, deep cavity, significant offset and maximum perimeter weighting. Engineered to launch high, fly far and forgive mishits. For mid to high handicappers (12 HC and above).

Loft is the angle of the clubface relative to vertical. A traditional 7 iron had a loft of around 34°. Many modern game improvement 7 irons now have lofts of 28–31° — equivalent to what used to be a 5 or 6 iron. This is done by manufacturers to advertise impressive distance numbers. The trade-off is that a “7 iron” that goes 185 yards is really a 5 iron — leaving gaps at the bottom of the set. When comparing irons, always check the actual loft of each iron, not just the number on the sole.

Lie angle is the angle between the shaft and the ground when the club is soled at address. If the lie angle is incorrect for your height, posture and swing, the toe or heel of the club will be raised at impact — directing the ball left or right regardless of how well you swing. This is one of the most commonly misfitted variables in amateur golf. Most manufacturers offer lie angle adjustment as part of a custom fitting at no extra cost.

Always before. Buying irons without a fitting is one of the most common and expensive mistakes amateur golfers make. A fitting costs nothing at most pro shops when you buy through them, and ensures you get the correct shaft, lie angle, grip size and iron type for your game. Walk into the fitting with your Golf Selector results and you'll have a clear starting point for the conversation with your fitter.